Gron-De-Mon Belgian Shepherd Dogs

Puppy advice and care

Congratulations on being the proud owner of a Gron-de-Mon Belgian Shepherd Dog – we hope that the following hints and tips will help give you and your new addition the best possible start- but remember that we are available to help – just

e-mail us at groenendael6@aol.com   

Puppy Care Advice

Having a new puppy is an exciting event filled with promise of a long and happy future together. Puppies are wonderful bundles of energy and fun, ready for anything and fascinated by the world, and it is up to us to help them settle in to our way of life and teach them how to behave as a much-loved member of the family. Following our puppy care advice will help you develop a bond with your new puppy.

     Routine Harmony

Establishing a routine for your puppy is the best way
to ensure he settles into your new home as quickly as
possible. Feed him at the same times and in the same places to begin with and make sure that he spends a short time on his own each day, to prevent him from becoming over-dependent on you.

Play with your puppy using toys and get him out and about to see the world and meet new people as much as possible from day one. This will help to build his confidence and his relationship with you from the outset.

Bedtime routine

Make sure your puppy’s bedtime routine is peaceful by following these guidelines:

1. Make sure your puppy has a bed of his own. Place this in a quiet area and encourage him to use it during the day for naps - not just at night. Indoor crates or cages offer puppies wonderful security and can be made snug and cosy with bedding and blankets.
2. Your puppy may feel isolated and lonely without his littermates and mum on his first few nights in his new home. Some owners are happy to place the puppy's bed or cage close to them so that the puppy can have some reassurance that he's not alone. Others prefer to have their puppy sleep in the kitchen. Either way, try not to go to him if he cries or barks as this may inadvertently encourage the behaviour.
3. Make sure your puppy has had a chance to go to the loo before bed. Pups also need to go to the toilet as soon as they wake - so don't expect a lie-in for a while. Get up early and take your puppy into the garden straight away to encourage early house training.

Protect, But Socialise!

Because of the risks of the various diseases that affect dogs, it is very important that your puppy is inoculated. This inevitably means a delay in being able to take your puppy out to mix freely with unknown dogs, as he will need to have completed his vaccination programme before you can do so. However, even before this time you can carry your puppy out and about, Go for trips in the car and visit other people and their vaccinated pets in order to build on your puppy's social experiences. Think about all the elements which make up our modern world - such as traffic, other animals, the noises and smells of the town and countryside and the sight and touch of lots of different people. Try to make sure that your puppy has a chance to get used to as many different experiences as possible before he's 12 weeks old. Don't leave it too late.

House Training

Puppies need to learn where and when they can go to the toilet - and that means outdoors, not in!

To begin with, puppies are just like babies and cannot be expected to have control over their bodily functions - particularly at night - until they are around eight to ten weeks. However, through careful training, pups can quickly learn to be clean in the house - and you can help them learn by rewarding them when they get it right.

Your puppy will need to go to the toilet after playing, after waking up, after any kind of excitement - such as the children coming home from school - and straight after meals.

At these times, take your puppy to the same place outside and wait with him or her - even in the rain! Gently repeating a word, such as "Be quick," helps your puppy to remember what he's there for. As soon as your puppy starts to sniff around, or circle, praise him or her very gently.

Once he has been to the toilet, give him lots of praise and a really special tit-bit to reward him.

If you wait outside with your puppy and he does not go, bring him back inside. You will need to keep an eye on your puppy just in case he or she needs to go to the toilet. Sure signs are sniffing and circling around, looking for a place to go. If you cannot watch him all the time, put him in a crate or play pen, or in an enclosed area where it doesn't matter if he has an accident.

If you catch your puppy about to go to the toilet in the house, say 'Outside' in an urgent voice, then take him quickly outside to show him where you do want him to go – even if it’s too late !

Never, ever be cross with your puppy if he has an accident in the house. Do not shout, smack or scold your puppy - even if you catch him in the act! Puppies that look 'guilty' are actually showing fear - and they can learn not to go to the toilet in your presence as a result. Dogs are generally very clean creatures - but it's up to us to give them all the right opportunities to get it right.

Biting

You have probably already realised that your puppy has very small, very sharp, teeth - and they hurt! Most puppies try to chew anything and everything - including us. This is normal behaviour, but it needs to be stopped as part of your puppy's social education.

Mouthing teaches a puppy about what is alive and what isn't. Just like a toddler, your puppy will want to put objects into his mouth and will bite them, to see what response there is as a result. If your puppy bites on a toy or a stick, nothing happens, but if he bites you, you need to make it clear that it hurts !

Puppies playing together will bite each other's legs and tails - all in fun. However, if one bites a bit too hard, the playmate will let out a big yelp. This tells the other puppy that he bit too hard and that he needs to be more careful next time.

In order to teach your puppy to moderate the strength of his bite, you need to let him know that biting hurts. Every time that he tries to put his mouth on you, stand perfectly still, and give a big yelp then fold your arms, and turn away.

If your puppy stops and calms down, you can go back to playing with him. However, if your puppy is overexcited and carries on trying to mouth you, say “Wrong', then immediately get up and walk out of the room, or pop your puppy behind a baby gate - effectively isolating him for a few moments. You will need to be consistent and repeat this behaviour every time your puppy puts his teeth on you.

Mouthing doesn't stop overnight!
By teaching your puppy that there are unrewarding consequences to his biting, it should gradually become less hard and then stop altogether within a four to six week period. However, children need to learn to be calm and to stop moving if your puppy is becoming overexcited - otherwise your puppy may think that biting is fun!

It's important to play games with your new puppy , but playing rough and tumble should not be encouraged. Rough games like this teach the puppy that it's OK to bite humans' clothes, hair or skin - which is clearly inappropriate. Playing tug games with toys, training games and hide and seek are far safer and just as enjoyable for everyone.

Rules

What your puppy learns now will affect his behaviour for the rest of his life! Think about how you want your adult dog to behave and lay the foundations for good manners before it's too late and start as you mean to go on!

Rules for humans!

1 Don't encourage biting

Any game where the puppy is allowed to bite humans is an open invitation to bite humans! How would you feel if your dog wrestled a visiting toddler to the floor in two years time? No matter what the size, shape,temperament or breed of your puppy, don't ever let him or her think that play-fighting with humans is fun.

2 Resist feeding your puppy from the table

Dogs slobber. They put their mouths and noses where we choose not to! They eat unimaginable things! Not all people can overlook these delightful canine habits at the dinner table! Bear in mind that dogs learn exactly what you teach them. Feed them from the table, and that's where they will think good things come from - so don't be surprised if they 'steal' food later - no matter how much you were looking forward to eating it!

3 Who's training who?

Right from day one, your puppy is working out what gets attention and what does not. In the first 24 hours of being in your home, he will already have worked out that barking gets eye contact and physical attention. Walking towards the back door gets a play in the garden. Picking up the kids' toys gets chase games. Ragging on the doormat gets laughter. Biting people gets them excited. Playing quietly with your own toys gets nothing. It doesn't take a genius to work out which behaviours he will repeat and which he won't bother with again.

Life is simple if you think like a dog. What gets rewarded, gets repeated. Rewards come in the form of attention from humans - any attention will do if nothing else is going on. Humans act funny when they get excited - it's even worth being punished just to see them jump up and down!

4 Don't allow your puppy to practise behaviours now which will be annoying later on!

Bad manners like jumping up, nudging people in intimate areas, mouthing and climbing all over people may be funny and cute when your puppy is tiny, but are much less endearing later on! If you don't want your five-stone adult dog to get on your bed after a muddy walk, don't teach him to do it when he's a puppy! Have a think about what your household's rules are going to be - and get everybody to stick to them. Consistency is the key !

Health

Belgians are generally speaking a healthy breed with a ‘natural’ construction , size and shape -. Recommended health tests for the breed are for Hip Dysplasia and for Cataracts.

Your Gron-de-Mon puppy has been bred from parents that have clear eye certificates and low hip scores. In addition we have avoided breeding within lines known to cause epilepsy which can sometimes be a problem in the breed.  Your puppy has also been been vet checked and given it’s first vaccination – your own Veterinarian will need to complete the course before your pups is fully immunised.

We begin worming using Drontal syrup at 2 weeks then again at 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks.  We recommend that you worm your puppy at 6 monthly intervals after this using Drontal tablets – the exact dosage will be guided by his weight- follow the manufacturers guidelines.suppled with the tablets.

Diet

Did you know that your dog's behaviour can be affected by his diet? Just like us, dogs can be adversely affected by the food that they eat - but the symptoms can be hard to spot

Physical problems can also be related to diet and feeding. A dog may appear to be hyper-active, or have a sensitivity to flea bites, grass or household cleaners - and they are often particularly itchy around the base of the tail, their feet and their belly if their diet is not suiting them.

Dogs should also have consistent digestion, and should not need to go to the loo six or seven times a day - neither should it look and smell like a herd of cows have been there afterwards! The rule here is that the better the food is being digested, the less will need to be passed out as waste.

Just as we are becoming aware that what we eat can affect us, emotionally and physically, so we are beginning to know more about how dogs can be affected by their diet. Not only is obesity in pets an increasing problem, but the link between how dogs learn and what they eat is being investigated too - raising awareness about just how important good quality ingredients in dog foods really are.

Your puppy's nutritional and behavioural development depends on being fed a good quality dog food..- he’s worth it !

Gron- De-Mon Pups have been weaned onto Arden Grange puppy food -you will be supplied with enough food for the first few days and a discount voucher for the next bag of food. If you wish to change over to another food remember to make any changes gradually so that his/her digestive system  can cope

There is a separate feeding chart supplied with your puppy’s bag of food– remember to have fresh water always available !.

 Basic Training

Training your puppy to do what you request is really a matter of motivating him to understand our language. Not many people would go to work day after day without ever being paid - and dogs need a reason to do what we ask, too. For many dogs, particularly puppies, food is the equivalent of a salary - it can act as the ultimate reward, and is also useful to use as a lure in the initial stages of training, too. Of course, a reward is only a reward if your dog likes it.

Some dogs prefer playing with toys, or attention from their owner, and not many will want to work for food which they perceive as boring or unpleasant. Treats, such as small cubes of cheese, liver, or pieces of your dog's food, are ideal. There is absolutely no need for your dog to put on weight through using food as a reward - if you are concerned about this, either cut down on your dog's food ration a little, or use a portion of his daily requirement for training purposes. good manners.

Basic training (sit/down/come)

SIT

  There are 101 things your dog can't be doing if he's sitting - making 'sit' the most useful of all requests to teach your dog.

• Show your dog you have a food treat between your finger and thumb. Hold it close to his nose so he can sniff it. Now lift your hand up and back, so he has to look right up to follow your fingers. The movement of him looking upwards like this causes a physical chain reaction - his rear end has to go down.
• As soon as his bottom hits the ground, say “Good” then give him the treat. If your dog's front legs come off the ground, your hand is probably too high. Concentrate on keeping the food right on his nose, and lift your hand just an inch or two. Once your pup is sitting reliably you can add in the word SIT, just before you lure him. In a matter of minutes you have taught your dog a verbal request to sit, plus a really effective hand signal. Now you can vary between sometimes using a food treat, and simply asking for a sit and rewarding afterwards.

• Practise getting your dog to respond to the word sit before he gets anything in life he likes -his dinner, having his lead put on, being let out into the garden - it's his way of saying please and thank you.

DOWN

  The down sometimes needs a little more patience than the sit. Keep quiet and be persistent - your dog will soon understand what you are asking.

• Start by asking your dog to sit. Hold the food treat between your finger and thumb and lower your hand, very slowly, down to the floor so that it rests just between your puppy's front paws.
• Hang on to the treat by turning your palm down, with the food hidden inside your hand. This way, your dog will want to burrow his nose underneath, and he will turn his head sideways to nibble at it.
• Early indications of imminent success are; the dog raising a paw to try and get the treat from your hand, the front end going down in a 'play-bow' position, and moving backwards slightly. All these things mean you just have to wait. Eventually the back end flops down to the floor, too. At this instant, say “Good' and put the treat onto the floor for the dog to eat.
• If your dog loses interest halfway down, simply tease him a little with the food treat and then slowly lower it to the floor once more. Practise then makes perfect!
• As soon as your puppy has got the hang of this, you can give the command “Down” just before you lure him down.
• Once this is reliable, alternate between food and no food in your hand. Before you know it, your dog will be offering you the down position on a hand signal or voice command only! However, continue to give him rewards for his best efforts in order to maintain good behaviour.

COME WHEN CALLED

Teaching your dog to come when called means that he will be able to have more freedom where it is safe to have off-lead exercise.

• Standing only a couple of steps away from your dog, call him in a friendly voice. 'Sam, come!'
• Waggle the food lure in your outstretched hand and start moving backwards. If the dog shows no response, clap your hands or make silly noises until he looks at you. Then, using the food as a lure, move backwards, just one or two paces. If the dog moves just one step towards you, say “Good' then give him the reward straight away.
• Gradually increase the distance your puppy has to come to get the food, making sure you praise him lots and give him delicious rewards or a game with a toy for coming when you call.

Now practise calling your dog to you at unusual moments in and around the house, then in the garden. Build up your puppy's recall before practising in the park or woods where there are more distractions. Here you can use a long line or extending lead if you are unsure how your puppy will respond. However, bear in mind that the more distractions there are, the better your rewards and and praise will have to be.

TIP - Never scold your puppy for
taking too long to come to you - it will only put him off returning next time!

MoreTraining Tips

Belgians love to learn. They are like little sponges absorbing information about their environment, the people around them, what feels good, and what does not. With the advent of modern 'hands-off' methods of training, where the dog is motivated by food treats or toys and is not physically forced to comply, there is no need to wait before starting to train your puppy. Puppy socialisation classes are now available in nearly every area of the country, and provide an excellent start for your puppy.

A good socialisation class should have an upper age limit of around 18 weeks and should not simply be a free-for-all, with all the puppies constantly playing together. It is vital that the play is controlled, and that the basics of training, using reward-based methods only, are used. A good class should be able to show you how to build on the relationship you have with your puppy, and develop his or her natural instincts to your advantage.

To find a good class, visit www.apdt.co.uk or ask your veterinary surgeon.

TOP TIPS THAT GOOD TRAINERS KNOW

1 GET YOUR PUPPY OUT AND ABOUT!

Time is short and you can never replace those early weeks of puppy development. Puppies need to meet other dogs, people and experience all kinds of sights, sounds and smells as early as possible in order to learn good communication skills. This is even more critical if you have another dog at home as puppies often over-bond with one playmate and never learn to have confidence in their own right.

2 START TRAINING NOW!

Just think how much easier it is to learn French when you are five than 55! Puppies can learn all the basics of good manners and training from the age of eight weeks, so don't delay! Tricks may seem like frivolous fun, but anything you can teach your dog helps to build bonds between you and increases your overall control.

3 DON'T ALLOW YOUR PUPPY TO PRACTISE BAD HABITS

It's oh so easy to let your tiny puppy sit on the sofa, steal food from your plate and jump all over you when you come home from work, but will you be so forgiving when your dog is large, muddy and hairy? It's unfair on puppies to get used to one set of rules, only to have them change without warning later on. Decide on your household 'rules' when your puppy first arrives and then get everyone to stick to them. It will save a great deal of stress later on!

4 TEACH YOUR PUPPY THAT IT'S OK TO BE LEFT ALONE

Many dogs love being with their owners so much that they cannot cope when they are left on their own. Dogs with separation anxiety can get so distressed that they can destroy furniture, bark or howl or mess in the house when their owners are out… and it's all preventable. Leaving your puppy in a safe area such as a crate or bed in the kitchen for a short time every day teaches him or her to accept that these times are just a normal part of life - and that you'll soon be back together again.

5 HANDLE YOUR PUPPY EVERY DAY

All dogs need to learn to enjoy being handled and examined. This prevents the puppy from experiencing stress at the vets and the groomers and is also a vital part of your daily care for your dog - enabling you to check his coat, skin, eyes, ears, mouth and feet and to keep him in tip-top condition. Using force is always counterproductive in handling your dog. Instead, make handling pleasurable for your puppy by giving lots of rewards for calm behaviour, and practise little and often.

  Coat Care

Your Belgian puppy will grow a thick double coat that will require weekly grooming –if you begin this using a gentle soft brush at first whilst he is still very young he will soon grow to enjoy his grooming sessions. As he gets older you will need a bristle brush and a pin comb ,a spray bottle of water or diluted grooming spray and a slicker brush. Begin by brushing against the lay of the coat then use the comb to gently untangle the longer hairs around the ears , tail and breeches  ( he may object to this at first but persevere !) then spray all over and brush again against the lay of the coat lifting it as you brush until his coat feels fairly dry and finally finish by brushing the coat the down against his body. A Belgian in full coat is a magnificent sight and his regular grooming sessions will help keep him in great condition.

Your BSD will moult twice a year when the undercoat comes away – a useful tool is the slicker brush which helps the coat to come out more easily and shortens the moult period. It’s best to do this outside or risk covering your home and furniture with a thick layer of black fur ! You will not need to bath your Belgian very often and in fact bathing too often will  strip the natural oils form his coat and may make his skin dry and flaky – no more than once or twice a year is enough ( unless he has been rolling is something unmentionable ! )

Finally do get in touch for any advice or help – our pups are very precious to us and we are happy to offer support for as long as it is needed.

Remember that we’d love some photos of your puppy as he grows so do stay in touch – we are always happy to add his/her own page to our website so that you can share your achievements with others !

Yvonne and Trevor Wheeler

Gron-de-Mon BSD